Dupa or incense, is ubiquitous across the island, found wafting in every temple in Bali. That is, except for one. This is Pura Dalem Kahyangan Kedaton, also known as Pura Alas Kedaton, founded in the depths of a monkey-populated forest.
According to an inscription in Sading Village, Mengwi, Badung Regency, the temple was built by the travelling priest, Mpu Kuturan, also known as Senapati Mpu Rajakerta, during the reign of King Sri Masula Masuli in Saka 1100 (1178 AD). Local belief holds that the monkeys inhabiting the surrounding forest are manifestations of Mpu Kuturan’s followers, transformed into guardians of the temple. These monkeys are considered protectors of nature, safeguarding the temple from disturbances caused by humans or supernatural beings. The forest is also teeming with large fruit bats (kalong).
The tradition of not using dupa stems back to the days of the temple’s founder, Mpu Kuturan. The priest noticed that the temple area was hotter than usual, and thus restricted any forms of fire to avoid the potential of forest fires. This rule has been strictly observed by the community to this day, and indeed lights are not permitted either resulting in ceremonies having to conclude before sunset.
In terms of architecture, unlike most temples in Bali, Pura Alas Kedaton features a unique layout where the Jeroan or Utama Mandala (inner courtyard) is situated lower than the Jaba or Madya Mandala (middle courtyard). The temple also has four entrance gates, one from each direction, surrounding the main area, with the temple itself facing west.
Alas Kedaton Temple also houses several pelinggih (sacred structures), a Lingga that the locals believe has grown over time and possesses magical properties, as well as several statues. These include a statue of Durga Mahisasura Mardini with eight hands, standing on a bull. From top to bottom, her right hands hold a fly whisk (camara), an arrow, a knife, and the bull’s tail. Her left hands hold a sword (kadga), a bow, a trident (trisula), and a mace (gada). Another statue depicts Ganesha seated on a lotus with two snakes. His right hand holds prayer beads (tasbih), and his left hand holds an axe and a tree branch. He has only one tusk (Ekadanta).
