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The west is perhaps Bali’s least visited corner, with much of the region undeveloped and in the eyes of visitors simply too far flung to explore. But, as long as there is a worthwhile destination in mind, the journey west can be an eye-opening experience, from Buddhist monasteries tucked in the mountains to sea temples straddling new and distinct coastlines.
On this Bali road trip, our final destination is West Bali National Park. A sprawling environment occupying 190 square-kilometres of land and sea on Bali’s most north-western corner, a haven for nature lovers, home to birds and beasts. A wild yet beautiful part of the island that is vastly different from the Bali we are accustomed to. Of course, there’s much to see along the way as well.
Other Bali Road Trip Itineraries:
Central-North Bali | East Bali
The First Leg
This is the most painful leg of the journey, as you battle through south Bali’s more congested tourist areas, making your way through Canggu and out past Pererenan, after which the roads begin to clear up. The first stop is Medewi Beach, which is a good 2.5-hour drive along the southwest coast and so we would suggest staying on-target as there’s much to see later.
If you’re looking to do as much sightseeing as possible, you can make a stop at Tanah Lot Temple on your way out, or indeed take a detour to any of the increasingly secluded beaches after this point. Soka Beach or Balian Beach are great mid-way points to stretch your legs.
Note: The road west is the main thoroughfare for buses and trucks from Java and so those driving require extra caution.
Medewi Beach
Medewi is the perfect pitstop, a spot to soak up the southwest coast before you head into the mountains. This is a renowned surfer’s escape, with its friendly reef breaks beckoning both novices and veterans of the sport.
Even for visitors not looking to ride the glassy swells, Medewi’s laidback atmosphere is just as inviting. Lowkey cafés and restaurants sparsely dot the stony, black sand beachfront, offering front row seats to the surf action. With a decent flow of visitors, the food and beverage options are decent for an area so far out.
Coastal life reigns here, and the traditional jukung boats add busyness and colour to the beaches that meander along the palm-fringed shores, behind which rice fields sprawl. On the bay before Medewi, one will notice a curiously still jukung boat, permanently out at sea.
This is ‘Monumen Pendaratan I Gusti Ngurah Rai’ (also known as Patung Jukung I Gusti Ngurah Rai), a monument dedicated to the Indonesian national hero I Gust Ngurah Rai, who commanded Indonesian forces in Bali against the Dutch. The statue commemorates a significant moment when the commander journeyed across the sea in a fishing boat from Bali to Banyuwangi, East Java, then to Yogyakarta to meet with President Sukarno to ask for military support. He returned to this very beach, which was unofficially renamed ‘Pantai Jukung’, or Jukung Beach, because of this moment.
Detour: Perancak
If you’re interested in exploring this stretch of coastline a bit deeper, drive 30-minutes further west towards Jembrana to see the makepung bull races –a local agrarian tradition of ‘chariot’ racing across the farmlands.
Then head over to Perancak to see the one-of-a-kind fleet of slerek fishing boats, a legacy of Bugis sailors who settled on the shore back in the 17th century. They are famous as being the the ‘couple’ boats, two identical boats joined together as ‘husband and wife’.
Pitstop: Stay at Medewi Bay Retreat
If you’re looking to soak up this southwest coastline before heading north, you can check into Medewi Bay Retreat, a cosy Balinese-style resort just a stone’s throw away from Pekutatan Beach that complements the area’s slowing place and rural charms. Surrounded by the tropical jungle, it is a little oasis of serenity.
From Deluxe Rooms, Garden View Suites to generous Three Bedroom Villas, the accommodations at Medewi Beach Retreat cater to families, groups, couples and solo travellers. Many of the rooms feature a fully-equipped kitchen, for those hoping to make their stay a home away from home. Blossoming tropical gardens wind their way through the resort grounds, between the rooms and around the central swimming pool.
Guests can enjoy Indonesian and Western delicacies served fresh at The Palms Bar and Restaurant, found poolside, or indeed book a massage treatment for a quick-me-up before the rest of this Bali road trip continues!
Medewi Bay Retreat can also facilitate deeper explorations of the Medewi area, with connections to local tours and experiences.
@medewibayretreat
medewibayretreat.com
Bunut Bolong
Avoiding the bus- and truck-heavy roads that speed along the coastal roads, we head north from Medewi onto Jalan Pekutatan-Pupuan for a welcome change of scenery. Sweeping banana plantations dominate the lower foothills, as the road climbs ever so gradually into Bali’s mountainous centre and into the Pupuan countryside.
After 30-minutes you will reach one of the area’s iconic landmarks, Bunut Bolong, a giant and sacred banyan tree. It is impossible to miss, mainly because you will have to drive through the banyan to continue up the mountain. The tree itself is believed to be hundreds of years old, found by the neighbouring Pura Bhujangga Sakti temple. For centuries the banyan’s hanging roots expanded, so much so that when Japanese troops (who occupied Indonesian during the Second World War) were building this very road, they found no way around the tree atop the narrow ridge. Instead, after many ceremonies, the tree’s centre was gauged out and a entryway almost four-metres wide now runs beneath the banyan — which continues to thrive! It is aptly named: bunut being a local name for the type of banyan, and bolong meaning perforated (having a hole through it).
Take a moment to take some pictures and marvel at the magnificent botanical spectacle, and also to take in the spectacular views from the edge of the valley which offers an opening to see just how high up you’ve come – then continue on your Bali road trip!
Detour: Juwuk Manis Waterfall
If you’re in the mood for some more exploration, you can take a quick, 30-minute detour to Juwuk Manis Waterfall, tucked deep in the mountainside around Manggissari village. The waterfall is reached via proper steps (complete with railings) that take your down the steep valleys and into the thicket of these central Bali forests. Juwuk Manis is a beautiful and boutique little spot, with a gentle (season-depending) twin waterfall and a plunge pool where you can swim.
Detour: Vihara Dharma Giri
Still on the mountain roads, but passed the central peaks and descending towards the north coast, one can take a minor detour to a serene Buddhist monastery. Home to a giant statue of sleeping Buddha, Vihara Dharma Giri is a tranquil worshipping site frequented mostly by some 100 Buddhist families that reside in the town of Pupuan.
The giant statue, which is a huge attraction at the temple, was built by the craftsmen from the Klungkung regency, and is nestled on wooden decks that overlooks the charming natural beauty of the hills of Pupuan that surround the temple. The temple is comprised of three different areas for visitors to explore – with the exception of several sections in the three areas that are reserved only to pilgrims.
Mayong Village
As you cruise down towards the north coast you’ll pass through the village of Mayong. Surrounded by padi fields and jungle, Mayong is a popular region for hikes and treks, inviting visitors to explore the verdant region on foot. Still within mountainous terrain, the rice fields terrace down the valleys in spectacular fashion, making for great views and a scenic walk in the countryside.
Crossroads: Seririt
The mountain road meets the coast at Seririt, a small town west of better-known municipalities of north Bali like Lovina or Singaraja. It’s a literal ‘crossroads’ moment for this Bali road trip. Whilst there’s little of interest to visitors, it may be an opportunity to stop and stock up on any provisions before starting the next part of the journey heading west along the coastal roads.
Hatten Wines Vineyard
North Bali’s dry climate is ideal for growing grapes, and so vineyards line the arid foothills stretching down to the sea. Bali’s original winery, Hatten Wines, invites visitors to enjoy a guided tour around their vineyards, which grow both local variety and international grape varieties.
The tour includes a wine tasting experience where you can enjoy a whole flight of the Hatten Wines range, including two sparklings, two whites, a rosé, a red and a dessert wine. Sit out with a glass of wine on the wooden observation deck in the middle of the vineyards, backdropped by the mountainside, with a gentle sea breeze blowing through. Bliss! (Closed on Sundays – hattenwines.com)
North Bali Temples
For those keen for a bit of culture on the north coast, there are three significant temples you can visit along the Jl. Singaraja-Gilimanuk road. Pura Pabean is a sea temple that displays a mixture of Buddhist, Hindu and Islamic influences –translating to ‘customs’, the temple was a point of worship for travelling seafarers for centuries.
There are also 13th century megaliths, now re-erected on the shore, harkening back to Bali’s ancient era. Across the road is Pura Pulaki, with its imposing black stone entrance. Inside the temple compound, one will find Chinese influences surrounding the regular Hindu shrines. Finally, Pura Melanting is a vibrant temple complex. Its history spans back to the 16th century, tied to the legendary travelling Hindu priest, Dang Hyang Nirartha.
Final Stretch
The drive from the sea temples to West Bali National Park is roughly 20-minutes, inviting you to take in the vastly different scenery of the north coast.
Final Destination: West Bali National Park
We finally come to the destination of this Bali road trip, which is the ultimate playground for nature lovers. West Bali National Park is home to a variety of different habitats: dominated mainly by monsoon forest, which sprawls across undulating hills and into valleys, this transforms into a contrast of rainforest and savannah terrains in different areas, each a host to different vegetation and wildlife. Along the coast, a thick, tangling mangrove forest binds the borders of land and sea; and underwater, thriving coral reefs are a world of their own.
With such a patchwork of habitats, this sprawling garden of wilderness is home to 175 species of plants, 110 species of coral and hundreds of species of animals, some of which are found exclusively in this quiet little nook of Bali. Commonly seen are wild deer and long-tail macaques, but one may be lucky enough to spot rarer sightings of the Southern Red Muntjac (barking deer), the endangered Javan Langur and wild boar that feed in the lowland scrub by day. Most impressive are the 160 different species of each presenting a spectrum of hues and colours. From Green Pigeons to the Collared Kingfisher, the endemic Jalak Bali, or Bali Starling and even Crested Serpent-eagle and Javan hawks.
The region offers a range of outdoor experiences, whether its hiking and trekking in the national park, early morning birdwatching, snorkelling and kayaking in the protected bay, soaking in hot springs and diving around Menjangan Island.
Destination: Stay at Menjangan Dynasty Resort
Could there better be a better way to immerse yourself in the great outdoors than glamping? Menjangan Dynasty Resort sits on the beachfront of the peaceful Banyuwedang Bay, sprawling up a verdant coastal headland offering elevated views of West Bali’s immaculate natural surroundings.
The resort’s ‘glamorous camping’ experience offers the perfect combination of adventure and luxury: African safari-style tented rooms and villas, crafted in bamboo and topped with alang-alang thatch roofs to blend with the surroundings. Choose from Beach Camp Tents, elevated Jungle Tents, or Cliff Tent Villas with a private infinity pool, each of which is beautifully decked out with themed furnishings. All the modern comforts of a regular hotel room are found inside these air conditioned accommodations, with plush bedding, rain shower, mini-bar, flatscreen television, WiFi and full bathroom amenities.
Menjangan Dynasty Resort makes the most of its natural surroundings, with an infinity pool overlooking the entire bay whilst Pasar Putih Beach Club offers direct access to a pristine white sand beach and crystal-clear waters. Guests can enjoy kayaking, canoeing and paddle boarding, or join snorkelling and diving excursions with the 5-star PADI dive centre on-site. For ultimate relaxation, Pasir Putih Spa by Ambiente offers cliff-top indulgence with massage treatments in two private waterfront spa pods.
@menjangandynastyresort
mdr.pphotels.com
